Relaxing in Damascus

Bad news: this blog has yet again been censored here in Syria, so I can't upload the loads of pictures I have. But the good news is that I may have the opportunity as early as tomorrow night, when I arrive in Amman.

For today, I'm recouping from the go-go pace of the past week by relaxing in Damascus.

Yesterday I called the family (mentioned below) that Sven and I met in Mar Musa. Unfortunately, while they had clearly communicated that they wanted me to spend a couple days at their house, they speak almost no English, so phone conversations are nearly impossible.

In fact, here's the full conversation I had with Salwa (the girl who took an inordinate liking to me):

Salwa: Allo?

Chris: Salwa? It's Chris-- from Mar Musa.

Salwa: Chris!! [chattering in Arabic to someone else] How are you!

Chris: I'm good. Hey, Sven and I are back in Damascus. Do you think it might be possible for us to stay at your place?

Salwa: [Long pause] I don't understands.

Chris: OK...[realizing that I had vastly overestimated her English language abilities, so switching to my bad Arabic]...should we meet?

Salwa: Meet where?

Chris: I don't know...for coffee? [once I said this, I instantly realized I had just accidentally asked her out on a date, and asking if Sven and I could spend the night at her house probably would not be smart.]

Salwa: [In bad English] Yes! But...I...no...Damascus... [I couldn't understand]

Chris: Ummm....OK...I'll just call you back later.

Salwa: YES!!!


I'm pretty sure she didn't understand the last thing I said, because I have never heard someone so enthusiastically scream yes in response to that statement.

Anyways, all was not lost. Sven and I spent the evening wandering Damascus with some German and French Algerian women we had met at Mar Musa.

And I made a contact via couchsurfing and stayed at his (Haitham's) place last night. I'm really glad I did: Haitham lives in a wealthier part of Damascus, and it's always good to get away from the touristy Old City.

So my agenda today is simple, to say the least. Find a train ticket to Jordan for tomorrow, a near-mythical ice cream shop (which Haitham says counts for three meals), some body soap, a power converter, and a new belt.

And a note for those of you who have traveled with me over the past month: rest assured that my infamous Dolce and Gabbanna belt (which has "FOR REAL LOVERS" splayed the entire way across the belt) will die a peaceful death.